okay...

Well, my time in Harare is officially over. We left yesterday, mid-morning.

Goodbye was more difficult than expected: three weeks sounds much shorter than it is, I think. The Tshoma family was so wonderful to Tim and I. On Saturday, Mama threw a party for my 21st birthday. All sorts of great food and friends...and laughs, etc. After dinner, we all went over to Andiswa's house to listen to loud music and watch world cup (this is how it's done in Khayelitsha). Had a drink to celebrate...yes, just one drink.

Sunday was a day with the family. Another great dinner. Afterwards, Mama insisted that she pray for us. Normally I get a little uncomfortable with situations like this, but Mama's faith is something quite unlike those people who make me cringe so much at home. We stayed up quite late, and she woke us up at 6:00 before she left to catch the train into town for her job as a domestic. Mwezi, Xolani, Samy, Uncle...it was one big parade of goodbyes.

To be quite honest, I haven't processed it all. I'm still in a bit of shock. We're now back in Hout Bay. I have my own room here and indoor plumbing, privacy, etc. And you know what? It kind of sucks.

I've got a lot more emotional unpacking to do. I wish I had something more insightful to say...perhaps later.

loss for words.

So, this is one of many pictures I have of the march. They expected about 5 000 people. It was insane. Perhaps this is the beauty of a young democracy...or maybe even the beauty of a community with a history of victimisation, one small manifestation of an uncomplacent spirit.

It's hard to believe that my time here is coming to an end so quickly. I have only two days left at TAC, and another weekend in Harare. And before you know it, a plane will whisk me away to my home country. There is much left to process on all sides, for certain. In any case, I know I have learnt many things, even if I couldn't quite tell you what those things are as yet. Many, many stories.

Mongesi. Xolani. Veza. Little SO and Mickey. Thando. Sizwe (both of them). Mandla. Pumeza, Amelia, Ntomboxolo. Zingsani. Samy. Saba. Father Nenge. There are many characters which will always stick out in my mind, and to attempt to describe them here would be a disservice to them and to you. So, I hope that at some point, we can talk about it in some sort of meaningful way.

I won't lie, it hasn't all been romantic. Harare can be a scary place, not just for a white guy, but for the rest of the community members as well. But, show me the community which does not have its problems. One central realisation for me has been this: humanity has its problems, no matter which side of the ocean, what sorts of socio-economic conditions, etc. No, I don't have to queue for water in the morning, waiting for hours, like some here. But an excess of materials and resources poses its own unique challenges. I am incredibly lucky to be able to have experienced even a small taste of this life, the good and the bad.

Hopefully one or two more posts. Thanks for reading...I hope I haven't turned into a raving lunatic and make some shred of sense.

on Treatment Action Campaign and Social Mobilisation

http://www.tac.org.za/documents/et20.pdf

The above document is Equal Treatment (sorry that I fail at html and cannot link it for you), the monthly magazine/newsletter of the Treatment Action Campaign, the HIV/AIDS rights advocacy group for which I'm working. If you're interested, find the one-page interview on Mandla Majola, the District Co-ordinator for TAC Khayelitsha. Mandla is an awesome man; he's the supervisor in the office.

How can I describe TAC K|litsha? I don't know whether I can, but I'll try. For one thing, the office is crazy, a blur of people. All but two of the people in office are volunteers (Mandla prefers to call them 'comrades' or 'activists'), and many of them (a majority?) are HIV positive. So many things are run out of our office: PWA support groups, peer education programs, youth programs, condom and literature distribution campaigns, a leadership development programme, and plans for various events. TAC, at list in the K|litsha branch, is about much more than equal access to ARVs, AZT and other drug therapies. This upcoming Friday, we're holding a march in Khayelitsha concerning gender violence (the statistics concerning rape are awful, particularly in the 'informal housing' sections of the township).

Also, last friday, we demonstrated at the Khayelitsha Magistrate Court, as the perpetrators of the rape and murder of a TAC activist (incidently, in my section of Harare) were in court.

There's a sense of dynamic that I don't think I'll ever be able to put words to. TAC is very grassroots...people have formed quite a community around their actions. TAC is social activism at its most passionate.

Wild. That's my story.

UGH.

So, I just lost a lengthy post, my second lost post on this blog.

Here's a summary:
-life in Harare is good, and I'm now feeling increasingly comfortable.
-TAC, my internship, is amazing and holistic, seeking to promote awareness of not only HIV/AIDS but also TB, gender-based violence, etc.
-I am the only white, non-Xhosa speaking person at TAC.
-In the last week, I've distributed condoms, TB literature, and picketed at a courthouse. It's been pretty crazy and a great learning experience.
-Bathing in a basin without running water is quite effective.
-'Mlungu' is a Xhosa word meaning "scum of the sea," and is used in reference to white people.
-Internet cafes are romanticised and overpriced, especially in the touristy parts of the city.

Erm, before I go broke:

sunrise from the steps of our home, Harare.

molo.

Greetings.

So, the safari and Durban have both come and gone. I just spent my first evening in Harare, Khayelitsha. Here's a brief update.

Well, after our 22-hour bus ride into Durban, we headed up to Umfolozi and a neighboring game park in two rented vehicles and one Keith, a friend of the Director of SACF and an experienced individual at Umfolozi.

Within our first five minutes in the park, we spotted our first elephant. Huge. HUGE. After it crossed the road and went back into the bush, our vehicle began to crawl down the hill and move on--that is, until the lone elephant turned back and came towards us. We froze. And turned off the lights. And freaked out. He came right up to the car he was at least twice the height and length of our van), trunk touching the front tire. We've never been that silent as group, before or since. It was a tremendous experience, albeit completely fear invoking. I'll never forget it.

After that, how could the park get any better? We did see more elephant, as well as rhino, giraffe, impala, wildebeest, lion, wildboar, nyala, etc. I don't have my camera with me, but I'll post pictures soon.

After safari, we went back into downtown Durban for an evening. Our ventures out were not entirely successful, as we didn't quite know where we were going (and, like anywhere, it's never exactly smart to wonder alone in unknown areas). However, at night, we met the Collins family for dinner (Paul and Claire are in the states, having been at Gordon College). Merrell, Liesel, Robert, and Mrs. Collins were great, and it was wonderful to sit and laugh with them. They're all intensly clever people, and no doubt have gone far and will go further with their lives. I felt very comfortable with them all...those of you who know Paul and Claire should know that their amazing-ness must be genetic.

And now, another 22-hour bus trip later, I find myself in a RDP (meaning built with government support) home in Harare. My Momma and host father are great, and multiple brothers and sisters live at the house, including a grandchild. It's been great to meet everyone, and a little awkward getting used to stares from community members, Xhosa (the language spoken as well as English), and a different way of life. I'm laughing a lot, mostly at myself. Other people are laughing at me too. Hey, whatever, eh? I've much to learn.

So, that's just a taste. As always, there is much more to write and photos to post. Perhaps next weekend or midweek? I'll try.

Take care and go well,
john