Let the formal hiatus begin...

Well,

I sit now in a Panera in Ocala, Florida (my father and I are down visiting my grandmother). South Africa is not only thousands of miles away, but thirteen days past. In many ways, life has returned to normal. Too normal.

At times, though, it all gets a little unnerving. A few days after I returned home, my mom was the innocent bystander while I railed on about the excesses of my life...poor mom. There is much left to process and learn, and lifestyle changes to match, perhaps. A friend emailed me and advised that I not make any rash decisions within the first ten days of my return. Well, now that I've been here for thirteen days...(grins).

Seriously, though, this is all very strange and mildly uncomfortable. I hope that part of me can remain that way always, questioning myself and my lifestyle in a way that is productive, meaningful, and empowering; to offend those around me or to make rash decisions for some liberal ideal with no real purpose is hardly what I'm after. Living in my true context in a way that affirms the humanity of...well, humanity, is the greatest challenge of all. I intend to engage it.

I think that my time on this blog will now end. In any case, I may be utilising this very blog again--I've the opportunity for another study abroad programme in Beijing, China, through American University's Beijing Program of Asian Studies (http://studyabroad-china.net/). So, you may see me again here in the new future, spring of 2007.

Until then, all the best. Thanks (nkos) for reading...the comments and discussions I've had have meant quite a bit to me.

Go well, and I pray that we may all live a little uncomfortably and very gratefully in our comfort.

john

okay...

Well, my time in Harare is officially over. We left yesterday, mid-morning.

Goodbye was more difficult than expected: three weeks sounds much shorter than it is, I think. The Tshoma family was so wonderful to Tim and I. On Saturday, Mama threw a party for my 21st birthday. All sorts of great food and friends...and laughs, etc. After dinner, we all went over to Andiswa's house to listen to loud music and watch world cup (this is how it's done in Khayelitsha). Had a drink to celebrate...yes, just one drink.

Sunday was a day with the family. Another great dinner. Afterwards, Mama insisted that she pray for us. Normally I get a little uncomfortable with situations like this, but Mama's faith is something quite unlike those people who make me cringe so much at home. We stayed up quite late, and she woke us up at 6:00 before she left to catch the train into town for her job as a domestic. Mwezi, Xolani, Samy, Uncle...it was one big parade of goodbyes.

To be quite honest, I haven't processed it all. I'm still in a bit of shock. We're now back in Hout Bay. I have my own room here and indoor plumbing, privacy, etc. And you know what? It kind of sucks.

I've got a lot more emotional unpacking to do. I wish I had something more insightful to say...perhaps later.

loss for words.

So, this is one of many pictures I have of the march. They expected about 5 000 people. It was insane. Perhaps this is the beauty of a young democracy...or maybe even the beauty of a community with a history of victimisation, one small manifestation of an uncomplacent spirit.

It's hard to believe that my time here is coming to an end so quickly. I have only two days left at TAC, and another weekend in Harare. And before you know it, a plane will whisk me away to my home country. There is much left to process on all sides, for certain. In any case, I know I have learnt many things, even if I couldn't quite tell you what those things are as yet. Many, many stories.

Mongesi. Xolani. Veza. Little SO and Mickey. Thando. Sizwe (both of them). Mandla. Pumeza, Amelia, Ntomboxolo. Zingsani. Samy. Saba. Father Nenge. There are many characters which will always stick out in my mind, and to attempt to describe them here would be a disservice to them and to you. So, I hope that at some point, we can talk about it in some sort of meaningful way.

I won't lie, it hasn't all been romantic. Harare can be a scary place, not just for a white guy, but for the rest of the community members as well. But, show me the community which does not have its problems. One central realisation for me has been this: humanity has its problems, no matter which side of the ocean, what sorts of socio-economic conditions, etc. No, I don't have to queue for water in the morning, waiting for hours, like some here. But an excess of materials and resources poses its own unique challenges. I am incredibly lucky to be able to have experienced even a small taste of this life, the good and the bad.

Hopefully one or two more posts. Thanks for reading...I hope I haven't turned into a raving lunatic and make some shred of sense.

on Treatment Action Campaign and Social Mobilisation

http://www.tac.org.za/documents/et20.pdf

The above document is Equal Treatment (sorry that I fail at html and cannot link it for you), the monthly magazine/newsletter of the Treatment Action Campaign, the HIV/AIDS rights advocacy group for which I'm working. If you're interested, find the one-page interview on Mandla Majola, the District Co-ordinator for TAC Khayelitsha. Mandla is an awesome man; he's the supervisor in the office.

How can I describe TAC K|litsha? I don't know whether I can, but I'll try. For one thing, the office is crazy, a blur of people. All but two of the people in office are volunteers (Mandla prefers to call them 'comrades' or 'activists'), and many of them (a majority?) are HIV positive. So many things are run out of our office: PWA support groups, peer education programs, youth programs, condom and literature distribution campaigns, a leadership development programme, and plans for various events. TAC, at list in the K|litsha branch, is about much more than equal access to ARVs, AZT and other drug therapies. This upcoming Friday, we're holding a march in Khayelitsha concerning gender violence (the statistics concerning rape are awful, particularly in the 'informal housing' sections of the township).

Also, last friday, we demonstrated at the Khayelitsha Magistrate Court, as the perpetrators of the rape and murder of a TAC activist (incidently, in my section of Harare) were in court.

There's a sense of dynamic that I don't think I'll ever be able to put words to. TAC is very grassroots...people have formed quite a community around their actions. TAC is social activism at its most passionate.

Wild. That's my story.

UGH.

So, I just lost a lengthy post, my second lost post on this blog.

Here's a summary:
-life in Harare is good, and I'm now feeling increasingly comfortable.
-TAC, my internship, is amazing and holistic, seeking to promote awareness of not only HIV/AIDS but also TB, gender-based violence, etc.
-I am the only white, non-Xhosa speaking person at TAC.
-In the last week, I've distributed condoms, TB literature, and picketed at a courthouse. It's been pretty crazy and a great learning experience.
-Bathing in a basin without running water is quite effective.
-'Mlungu' is a Xhosa word meaning "scum of the sea," and is used in reference to white people.
-Internet cafes are romanticised and overpriced, especially in the touristy parts of the city.

Erm, before I go broke:

sunrise from the steps of our home, Harare.

molo.

Greetings.

So, the safari and Durban have both come and gone. I just spent my first evening in Harare, Khayelitsha. Here's a brief update.

Well, after our 22-hour bus ride into Durban, we headed up to Umfolozi and a neighboring game park in two rented vehicles and one Keith, a friend of the Director of SACF and an experienced individual at Umfolozi.

Within our first five minutes in the park, we spotted our first elephant. Huge. HUGE. After it crossed the road and went back into the bush, our vehicle began to crawl down the hill and move on--that is, until the lone elephant turned back and came towards us. We froze. And turned off the lights. And freaked out. He came right up to the car he was at least twice the height and length of our van), trunk touching the front tire. We've never been that silent as group, before or since. It was a tremendous experience, albeit completely fear invoking. I'll never forget it.

After that, how could the park get any better? We did see more elephant, as well as rhino, giraffe, impala, wildebeest, lion, wildboar, nyala, etc. I don't have my camera with me, but I'll post pictures soon.

After safari, we went back into downtown Durban for an evening. Our ventures out were not entirely successful, as we didn't quite know where we were going (and, like anywhere, it's never exactly smart to wonder alone in unknown areas). However, at night, we met the Collins family for dinner (Paul and Claire are in the states, having been at Gordon College). Merrell, Liesel, Robert, and Mrs. Collins were great, and it was wonderful to sit and laugh with them. They're all intensly clever people, and no doubt have gone far and will go further with their lives. I felt very comfortable with them all...those of you who know Paul and Claire should know that their amazing-ness must be genetic.

And now, another 22-hour bus trip later, I find myself in a RDP (meaning built with government support) home in Harare. My Momma and host father are great, and multiple brothers and sisters live at the house, including a grandchild. It's been great to meet everyone, and a little awkward getting used to stares from community members, Xhosa (the language spoken as well as English), and a different way of life. I'm laughing a lot, mostly at myself. Other people are laughing at me too. Hey, whatever, eh? I've much to learn.

So, that's just a taste. As always, there is much more to write and photos to post. Perhaps next weekend or midweek? I'll try.

Take care and go well,
john

Well...

Hello hello. It's hard to believe that I've been in SA for over ten days already, yet at the same time, I'm finally beginning to feel aclimated.

Yesterday, we went to a mosque to visit with Immam Ahmed Casseim [google him, he's quite interesting], a South African with an interesting take on the future of South Africa. He was a political prisoner on Robben Island, and his view of the future of SA was particularly Islamic in nature (in fact, it wasn't wholly unlike the thoughts of the Religious Right in the states). In any case, we went to the friday prayers at the mosque before meeting with him, and I found the service quite meaningful. We've spent a lot of time talking about 'listening to other voices' during our time here; that is, making sure every viewpoint gets represented and heard. This is the first step of peacebuilding, from fundamentalist Immams to Afrikaners, etc.

The 'intensive' nature of the intensive has dwindled. In fact, today is a free day. I'm catching up on a few journal entries and enjoying the beach, as today is our last full day at the villa in Hout Bay. Tomorrow we get on a bus for the 18-hour trip to Umfolozi (or Imfolozi), a game reserve, for an eco-tour/safari. It sounds wild, but I'm sure internet access will be scarce.

So, I'll be back in a week or so, hopefully with some interesting picture to boot. Take good care.

This is the view from Table Mountain, the large mountain that looms over the city proper. Believe it or not, it is quite flat on the top (hence the name).  Yesterday we hiked the mountain (a 2 hour, fairly vertical hike) and enjoyed the view on an uncharacteristically clear day. It was pretty breathe-taking.

Check out more photos at johnhoag.zoto.com

The courtyard outside Mandela's prison cell. Krippa is dancing.

 

Cape Town and freighter from the Robben Island ferry

 

Howzit from Cape Town

Greetings from an internet cafe on Lang Street, friends.

Whew. It's been a whirlwind since I've begun my time in South Africa...I don't know where to begin. I'm slightly pressed for time, but I'd like to tell you some important bits and pieces about where we are and what we are doing...perhaps a more substantial update shall come later.

In any case, after we arrived at the Cape Town International Airport, we were driven in kombis (think those old Volkswagen vans, only they fit 12 people or more)to Hout Bay (houtbaai in Afrikaans, it's name until the ANC government in 1996), in the wealthy foreign/white area. We're in a beautiful, rediculously beautiful villa, about a quarter of the way up a mountain, overlooking the bay, on the Atlantic. As soon as I upload the appropriate pictures, I'll let you know. Though compact, it's rediculously beautiful, modern, etc...perhaps too much so. Two pools, marble floors, beautiful sunsets, and a view to die for.

The whole point of our time spent in this rental home is to highlight the vast disparity that still exists between those who have and those who do not. We're in the midst of the 'intensive,' which so far has consisted of visiting historical sites concerning the rise and fall of apartheid, beginning with, well, the begining...the Castle of Good Hope (ironic name), the first architechture that white people put on the tip of Southern Africa, when they "discovered" it in the 1600s.

We've been dealing a lot with Afrikaner identity (those are those of Dutch descent, yet consider themselves to be indigenous to the country), and the ways in which the Dutch Reformed Church intersected with the political structures in a deadly perpetuation of apartheid. Frankly, the trip has been difficult so far, sifting through what it means to be a white person in my own context.

There is much more to say, but know that I am well. Tomorrow we will go to an Anglican church in the township in which we will be staying shortly...and then to Cape Point (where the penguins are). Sweetness.

More soon. Take care.

well...

Well friends,

So far so good...although I haven't gotten to South Africa yet. I'm currently typing away from London's Heathrow Airport, awaiting the 11.5 hour trip to Cape Town. Whew.

However, this is after a twelve hour layover in London...long enough to hop the tube into the city, grab a pub lunch (I had fish and chips...), walk on the shores of the Thames, and see a few other things. So fun.

But, so tiring. It's an odd sort of interplay, going from London to South Africa. One township(Crossroads?) is right near the airport. I'm not really sure what to expect...but I'll let you know soon!

Yep, I'm random. You'd do anything to pass the time, too.

So, a change in plans in the placement. I’ll be working with Treatment Action Campaign an advocacy group. Here’s some text from the site...

The Treatment Action Campaign (TAC) was founded on 10 December 1998 in Cape Town, South Africa. We campaign for treatment for people with HIV and to reduce new HIV infections. Our efforts have resulted in many life-saving interventions, including the implementation of country-wide mother-to-child transmission prevention and antiretroviral treatment programmes. The TAC also runs a treatment literacy campaign: this is a training programme on the science of HIV treatment and prevention.

It sounds like a good opportunity for me to put my money where my proverbial mouth is, you know? Yes, I’ve ‘cared’ about AIDS since I realized how stigmatized the issue is (as well as my own stereotypes), and since I’ve met some very passionate individuals fighting for AIDS awareness and financially feasible therapy. But I have no idea...I don’t know anyone who is HIV positive.


The leader of the NGO, Zackie Achmat, has quite a story. Himself HIV+, He put his money where his proverbial mouth is, refusing to take antiretroviral therapy (in my understanding, drugs that can slow, if not eliminate, the progression of HIV symptoms) until a substantial program was legislated by the South African government to provide the same therapy at a reasonable cost. You can read more about him here, at Wikipedia.

Internship?

If this internship placement works out, I couldn't be happier. It sounds like the perfect opportunity to gain a practical understanding of ‘community development,’ that is, what it is or whether I agree with it.

------ Forwarded Message
From: brian
Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 06:07:37 -0700 (PDT)
To: John Hoag
Subject: Re: Internship?

John,
  
I apologize deeply that I have not sent you information about your placement yet.  I am currently trying to place you in the organization that I worked with last year.  It is an NGO that I love dearly that balances its time between Imbizos (the Xhosa word for conflict mediation), and sustainable community development.  Unfortunately, because the director is so busy with national and international projects, I have had a hard time sitting down with her to discuss what she has available for you to work on.  I want to be sure that you won't be behind a desk all day typing grant proposals.  Some of that wouldn't be bad, but I certainly don't want that to be the bulk of your work.  I have some other possibilities in my mind, but as I said, I think this is a wonderful organization, and I think you will enjoy it as well, so I don't want to give up on it just yet, even though I would have like to have given you information sooner.  I will find time that the two of us can sit down together and talk more when you get here, so I can properly prepare you for the work you will be doing.  Thanks for your patience John.  Finish strong, and I'll see you in a few short days.
  
~brian

John Hoag wrote:
  

Hi Brian,

I just spoke with Charis Idicheria today and heard of her placement...she¡&hibar;s so excited, and it seems to be right up her ally. I¡&hibar;m just curious as to whether I¡&hibar;ve been placed in an NGO, and whether any details are available. Is there anything I should know or expect? I¡&hibar;d just like to know as I¡&hibar;m wrapping stuff up in the states and getting ready for our time in South Africa.

Thanks Brian,
john